Category Archives: Travel

Book of Mormon (the musical) was as good as I’d hoped.

When I lived in Kingston Ontario, one of my associates developed a theory that he called the Chez Piggy effect.  Chez Piggy was one of the best restaurants in town, (and by all accounts it still is!)  The food was creative and delicious, the service usually impeccable, and the atmosphere casual enough that people who didn’t go to “fancy restaurants” often would be able to feel comfortable.   But my associate had the theory that Chez Piggy didn’t completely deserve its fabulous reputation – he said that since so many of the people who went there were going to mark an occasion (anniversary, graduation, etc), they were unlikely to express any criticism of the actual food or service because they were inclined to make good memories and not “ruin the occasion” by voicing any displeasure to their server at the time or to each other afterwards.

I didn’t actually agree with him about Chez Piggy, since I had never had poor food or poor service there, but I saw his point in general.   When I go to a lot of trouble and expense to attend something, I probably am less inclined to pay attention to its flaws.

With all of that as a circuitous disclaimer, I want to say that my first impressions of the Toronto/Mirvish production of the musical Book of Mormon were entirely positive.  I saw it on Saturday – actually I saw two performances back-to-back and I loved it more the second time through.

Book of Mormon is a story about two Mormon missionaries arriving in Uganda, and how the interaction changes both the missionaries and the Ugandans.  It’s also about faith versus works (and comes down hard on the Pope Francis side that being a good person matters more than believing all the right things).  It’s about North American / Global North views of Africa as the homogeneous themepark of Lion King.  It’s about boys trying to please their fathers, and families trying to cope in horrible situations, and metaphors versus miracles.

I am quite familiar with the soundtrack, but knew almost nothing about how the story progressed between the songs and bits of conversation on the original-cast album, and nothing at all about what I would see on stage.   So I had a general sense of plot and pacing, but there were several key points which did not become clear until I was watching the actual show.  Unlike many musical productions, the program for this one did not list the songs.

Being familiar with the lyrics meant that I wasn’t always laughing at things the rest of the audience laughed at.  Some of them laughed at swearing just because it was swearing, every time.   There’s quite a bit of swearing in the show, and we hear it as shocking because the young missionaries are shocked by it.  The alternatives-to-swearing employed by the missionaries (“Oh-Em-Gosh”, for example) sounded credible to me and were generally not played for laughs.

I was completely delighted by the dancing.  The big production number to “Spooky Mormon Hell Dream” said some original things about Hell and was creepy and funny without being ridiculous.   A historical pageant included acting out the effects of dysentery on Joseph Smith and his fellow migrants, which was just barely not too graphic for my comfort and thus hilarious.  And I loved the elder-missionaries chorus showing their flashier sides in “Man Up” and “Turn It Off!”  I am a big fan of ironic choreography that uses all the familiar gestures of 20th century stage shows in parodic ways, and Book of Mormon had lots of them – jazz hands, top hats, tap dancing, exaggerated marching, pelvic thrusts, and other bits that I don’t have the words for but have been seeing since I was a small child watching song-and-dance shows on television.

In the Saturday shows, the role of Elder Cunningham (the bumbling fanboy missionary) was played by standby Michael Buchanan rather than the usual actor Christopher John O’Neill.   The other headliners Mark Evans (Elder Price, the cocky missionary with the rockstar reputation who chokes) and Samantha Marie Ware (Nabulungi, Ugandan convert and love-interest) were performing in their usual roles.   On first viewing, I didn’t really distinguish among the Ugandan people in the story except for Nabulungi and her father (I’m not sure if he was some kind of village authority; he was the person the missionaries had been told to report to.)  Seeing it again, I saw the doctor, the man called Motumbo (whose identifying motivation is disturbing enough that I won’t repeat it here out of context), and the teacher, as well as the warlord called the General and his supporters – but except for Nabulungi the villagers are not well characterised.  Neither are the other missionaries, except for Elder McKinley (Grey Henson).

I felt uncomfortable about a few of the ways that Nabulungi, the female lead, was diminished into comedy.  There’s a running gag about Elder Cunningham, for all his crush on her, being unable to remember her name and substituting all kinds of inappropriate long words –  Nala (like in Lion King), Neosporin, Jon Bon Jovi, Nanaimo Bar, and so on.  (I’m almost positive that he didn’t say Nanaimo Bar in the afternoon show just in the evening one, so the actor may have been riffing somewhat spontaneously in the late shows of the run).   She buys a typewriter which she calls a “texting device”, and then the plot advances through her writing notes to people which she refers to as texting.  This made me feel like it was making fun of a developing-world young woman’s wish to be modern and her misunderstanding of technology and terminology.   Near the end, there’s a miscommunication plot point about her having assumed that accepting baptism would lead to her getting to emigrate to Salt Lake City with the missionaries (Sal Tlay Ka Siti, as the title of her solo is spelled). I started to be annoyed at this being another shortcut joke making fun of the naïve village girl, but some of my discomfort was redeemed for me in the way all the other villagers immediately began explaining to her that they’d always known that the religious stories were all metaphors, and had accepted the religion knowing that.  This was also a tidy way of reconciling the canonical Mormon stories with Elder Cunningham’s creative and useful extemporaneous versions, saying that the details really don’t matter very much.

The sound balance was just about perfect, from where I was sitting.  There was a small live orchestra which never overpowered the singers.  The lighting was effective and usually unobtrusive.  The scenery was fun to look at but not overly complicated or distracting.  A few things were moved by the actors (turning a door as they walked around it to indicate changing from an outdoor to indoor scene) but mostly things moved invisibly.  For the scene when the new missionaries arrive in Uganda totally overwhelmed, the visuals bring this out very well, with lots of crowded buildings, and rocks making a busy cluttered setting while the villagers go about their daily chores all over the stage, including one character dragging a dead donkey behind him, its head bobbing bloodily.

The story and the characters worked very well for me, partly because over the course of the story everyone changes, some of them quite against their will but all in a way that I saw as positive.  I wondered ahead of time if I would find it difficult to accept the premise of the story without needing to ignore inconsistency with my own beliefs.  In fact I was pleasantly surprised that after a lot of pointed criticism of that specific implementation of religion and evangelism earlier in the play, the general resolution was approximately humanist in a way that I didn’t find troubling or dramatically inconsistent.

Book of Mormon closed in Toronto after last weekend, but the tour continues.   I would definitely see it again if an opportunity I could afford arose.   Or possibly one that I couldn’t, after I finish paying for this trip.

Christmas in the Mountains

The last couple of years, I’ve taken VIA Rail to Jasper for Christmas.  The Canadian’s only running two days a week this winter instead of the thrice a week that it’s been running for the last couple of decades, but both years it’s worked out that a westbound train leaves Edmonton early Christmas morning and gets in to Jasper station shortly after noon.

If you aren’t already a VIA Rail enthusiast, the trip to Jasper is a good way to try it out.  You can enjoy the comfortable seats in economy class with lots of leg room, fold-out leg rests, and electrical sockets at every pair of seats.  If you’re a larger party, the train personnel will often rearrange other travellers and rotate some of the seats backward so that you can all sit together and face each other.  Economy-class passengers can go to the snack bar or dining car, and you can enjoy the view from the dome car.  It’s probably obvious that I’m already a VIA Rail enthusiast.  On longer trips I take a lower berth, because I love the meals and the comfort of being able to sleep under a duvet while listening to the sound of the train and watching the stars.  I used some of my VIA Preference frequent-traveller points so this trip was free – and with VIA Preference, free means free, not paying a hundred dollars or more worth of taxes and extra charges like on an airline frequent-traveller ticket.

An etiquette nuance that some train newcomers might not pick up on right away is that when you board in Edmonton, you’re joining people who have been on the train all night, and who might still be trying to sleep.  That’s why the lights are off, and even if you’re excited about the adventure, you should try to moderate your voice in the economy car, and go to the lounge car if you want to play games or talk loudly.

The trip to Jasper starts in darkness if you are travelling in winter, but later in the year the whole westbound leg is in daylight.  You travel through the industrial backyards of northwestern Edmonton, then through countryside, along the edge of Lake Wabamun, then stop at Edson and Hinton.  Shortly after Hinton, you start getting glimpses of mountains and water.  There is one short tunnel.  The service manager sometimes points out features of interest.  The historic train station is central to Jasper townsite.  There’s a coffee shop / train giftshop in the station as well as some car rental agencies and a Greyhound bus depot, and there are taxis and shuttles to the hotels and the youth hostel.

Several of the Jasper hotels offer Christmas packages.  The chatty personal welcome that’s common for service-industry people in Jasper is even stronger at Christmas.  I chose the Sawridge Inn last year because it sounded both appealing and affordable, and I liked it well enough to return this year.  Many of the Christmastime guests are families with children, but not all of them.  Activities for children included decorating gingerbread houses and hanging stockings by the hotel fireplace to be filled overnight.  Jasper Park Lodge has a longer list of activities for adult guests, but it’s more expensive.

sawridge dinner

Selection from Christmas-dinner buffet, Sawridge Inn

For Christmas dinner, this year’s buffet offered roast beef, stuffed pork loin, and two kinds of smoked salmon as well as turkey.  The turkey was served with a good bread stuffing, together in a pan with clear “pan gravy”; there was also an opaque thickened gravy served separately.  They ran out of turkey before service had ended, and substituted another meat dish.  I can’t remember seeing a vegetarian entrée.  My favourite of the side dishes was a “partridge in a pear tree” salad, with roasted beets, pink grapefruit, feta cheese, spinach, and a citrus vinaigrette.  The wine list had many options by the glass as well as by the bottle, including more Niagara Peninsula favourites than are often seen in Alberta.

My room package included a breakfast buffet as well.  It wasn’t particularly exciting, but everything I tried was good.  There was a problem with my dinner reservation which was not handled as professionally as I would have preferred, and I haven’t yet had a response to my email about it or my note on the customer feedback form.  In all other respects the hotel service was good and the amenities were superior.  The Sawridge is on the eastern edge of the townsite, a pleasant walk in last year’s mild Christmas weather.  There is a free shuttle to the train station, and a ski bus also stops at the hotel.

Some but not all of the Jasper restaurants and stores are open on Boxing Day.  Stychen Tyme, the yarn, quilting, and needlework store, is open and worth a visit.  The park visitor centre and museum are closed.  Jasper Brewing Company has an assortment of tasty in-house brews, a short menu of good food including a moist bison burger, and an oddly-disturbing painting of an encounter between the child actor Gary Coleman and the Edmonton Oiler Mark Messier.

Bison burger and side salad at Jasper Brewing Company

Bison burger and side salad at Jasper Brewing Company

Painting at Jasper Brewing Company

Painting at Jasper Brewing Company

Will I go back?  I like the idea of not being bound to a Christmas tradition, even one as easy as this, but I would definitely consider it, either with company or on my own.